Is there an FPGA with a totally Free and Open toolkit yet?

As others have already mentioned the Lattice ice40 family is supported by OSS chains through project icestorm [0].

There were some nice boards floating around though you may have to watch out for supply chain issues still plaguing this market. Examples:

- icoboard: has the 8k LUTs chip, comes with soldered PMODs[1], if you get it watch out as you either need a RaspberryPI with GPIOs soldered to program it, or you purchase their USB FTDI interface in addition. See: http://icoboard.org/

- iCEBreaker, comes with the 5k LUTs chip, has the USB-FTDI interface built-in, but you need to solder the PMODs yourself. See: https://www.crowdsupply.com/1bitsquared/icebreaker-fpga#prod...

[0] https://github.com/YosysHQ/icestorm

[1] https://digilent.com/reference/pmod/start