Not sure about people pushing matrix as an alternative. I tried out Matrix several weeks ago and hated everything about it. From the account creation process, shiny modern UI, channel finding options, activity level (since you are basically constantly logged in, channels with even quite a lot of users have next to no activity for days at a time), kind of activity (and most of it was really poor activity, like someone sharing a link, someone giving a thumbs up, and channel dead for another day) and I'm not sure I fancy large number of mobile phone users on any form of IRC replacement.

It's complicated/convoluted enough to be for a tech crowd, and modern/shiny/complex enough to be a disgusting mess to someone coming from IRC. At least for me. Given more users and activity I still wouldn't like it.

I might be wrong, but maybe this whole mess with Freenode won't be a big deal in the end. IRC never held a particular promise of "privacy" for me, many channels are logged by some or most of their users, or even publicly online via some sites. As long as Freenode continues to work (in a technical sense), and mass migration of channels doesn't ensue, I see no point in stopping my use of it.

I desperately hope matrix (or discord, which I haven't yet tried, but don't have much hope for either) won't be the answer. Maybe a switch to OFTC is an option for some channels.

We will see.

Your UI complaints apply only to Element (the flagship client) rather than to Matrix the protocol. As others have said, there are other, less-flashy clients available (and others under development).

Some examples:

Quaternion: https://github.com/quotient-im/Quaternion

Hydrogen: https://github.com/vector-im/hydrogen-web

Nheko: https://github.com/Nheko-Reborn/nheko